Our list of absolutely No-go Ingredients and why we’re not ok with them.
knowledge is power
There is so much research available on the various chemicals in beauty products, it can be a minefield. We’ve undertaken extensive research, to try and take the guesswork out of it for you, but there are always going to be studies that contradict each other or often just a lack of data into the biological effects of certain chemicals. When the jury is still out…or we don’t think it’s worth the risk, we will always opt for excluding it from any product we source to give you peace of mind.
Rather than taking what we’re told is “clean” at face value, we have created our own vigorous screening process that looks at every single ingredient in every product and checks against over 150 different chemicals that we deem unsafe based on current scientific research. Unlike other retailers, we wont compromise on controversial ingredients which means we have a smaller offering, however, you can have confidence that whatever we stock is the absolute best in class for clean beauty products.
Below is a summary of the main chemicals and chemical groups that we exclude and why we do, however, this is by no means the full list that we screen against.
Carcinogens
These are ingredients that have the potential to cause cancer in living tissue.
Acrylates
Acrylates are chemicals made from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and are often found in false eyelash glue and nail products or as a film-forming agent.
Direct skin contact and inhalation are the main risks. In animal studies, they have been linked to organ system toxicity, cancer, cellular and neurological damage as well as developmental and reproductive toxicity.
(PDF) POTENTIAL CANCER RISK IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS – ACRYLATES AND DERIVATIVES
IARC Publications Website – Isobutyl Nitrite, β-Picoline, and Some Acrylates
Butylated hydroxyanisole and Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHA and BHT)
BHA and BHT chemicals are used as preservatives in a variety of personal care products. Both of these chemicals are also used as preservatives in foods.
These chemicals are linked to several health concerns including cancer, endocrine disruption and organ-system toxicity.
Sources:
Butylated Compounds – Safe Cosmetics
Carbon black
Carbon black is made up of finely divided forms of amorphous carbon, usually obtained as soot from partial combustion of hydrocarbons. It is most commonly used in cosmetics as a darkening pigment for mascara, eyeliner & lipsticks. Listed by the OEHHA as carcinogenic when in respirable size.
Sources:
Carbon black (airborne, unbound particles of respirable size) – OEHHA
https://www.birlacarbon.com/pdf/SDS/01_Rubber_Products_SDS/INDO-GHS%20RCB%
Chromium
Chromium is a heavy metal and is used as a colourant in cosmetics and nail polish. Chromium is strongly linked to immune system toxicity with chronic inhalation being linked to lung, nasal and sinus cancer.
Sources:
Lead And Other Heavy Metals – Safe Cosmetics
1,4 Dioxane
1,4 Dioxane is not deliberately added as an ingredient, but is sometimes found in trace amounts in cosmetics, shampoos, baby care and deodorants, 1,4 Dioxane is a by-product produced during the manufacturing process of certain ethoxylated ingredients. 1,4 Dioxane exposure through cosmetics can be reduced by removing ethoxylated ingredients from the products.
The U.S. EPA has classified 1,4-dioxane as a likely human carcinogen, with low-level exposure over a person’s lifetime can increase the risk of cancer. Whilst higher exposures over a shorter amount of time can damage cells in the liver, kidney, and respiratory system.
We have dramatically reduced the likelihood of this being in any product we source by screening for the most common ethoxylated ingredients.
Sources:
Cosmetics Contain 1,4-dioxane: How Harmful Is It? | Environmental Pollution Centers
Ethanolamines and Nitrosamines (MEA, DEA, NDEA & TEA)
Monoethanolamine (MEA), Nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA), Diethanolamine (DEA) and Triethanolamine (TEA) are examples of ethanolamines (Amino acids and alcohol). When ethanolamines are combined with certain preservatives that break down into nitrogen, they can form Nitrosamines. They are often found in products such as foundation, eyeshadows, soaps and lotions. They are used as emulsifiers and PH regulators. Animal studies have shown an increased risk of cancer and may have adverse effects on male reproductive health.
Sources:
Ethanolamine Compounds (MEA, DEA, TEA And Others) – Safe Cosmetics
Nitrosamines in Cosmetics, Toiletries and Personal Care Products. – ASCC
Formaldehyde Releasers
Formaldehyde is a chemical that was traditionally used as a preservative to help eliminate the growth of bacteria in cosmetic products, nail polish and shampoos. Exposure to formaldehyde has been linked with an increased risk of cancer. Formaldehyde irritates the nose, eyes and throat. These irritations can happen at low levels of formaldehyde. Other short-term effects include headache, runny nose, nausea and difficulty breathing. Exposure may cause wheezing, asthma attacks and other respiratory symptoms. It is no longed allowed to be added as an ingredient in cosmetics in the UK. However, certain permitted chemicals found in skincare and cosmetics such as Diazolidinyl Urea and Imidazolidinyl Urea and Quaternium -15 are known Formaldehyde releasers.
Sources:
Formaldehyde And Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives – Safe Cosmetics
Formaldehyde: general information – GOV.UK
Formaldehyde in cosmetic products
Twelve chemicals to avoid in your beauty products | The Independent
EWG Skin Deep® | What is DIAZOLIDINYL UREA (FORMALDEHYDE RELEASER)
Mineral oils
Mineral oil is a petroleum derivative made from refining crude oil. It can also be labelled as paraffinum liquidum, paraffinum perliquidum or synthetic wax in the UK.
Mineral oils are used to provide a barrier to the skin to help a product’s moisturising effects. It can have adverse health effects if the petroleum is not highly refined and therefore can contain polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are carcinogenic.
Sources:
Mineral Oils: Untreated and Mildly Treated – Cancer-Causing Substances – NCI
P-Phenylenediamine
P-Phenylenediamine is a chemical most commonly used in hair dyes.
It can irritate the skin and is highly toxic if ingested or inhaled, can cause changes to DNA and is linked to an increased risk of cancer.
Sources:
P-Phenylenediamine – Safe Cosmetics
P-Phenylenediamine – Why and How you should Avoid it | Curious Chloride
Parabens
Parabens are used as preservatives to protect against microbial (e.g., bacteria, fungus) growth and help preserve the product for longer. They are found in a wide ranging list of skincare and haircare products. A number of Parbens are now banned in Europe along with restrictions on use for others as they can mimic oestrogen by binding to oestrogen receptors on cells. For this reason, there has been concern that they may cause or contribute to breast cancer. The United States still allows their use, although there is growing pressure from consumers to remove them. There is a lot of conflicting information about Parabens and their safety for use in cosmetics,
Sources:
Are cosmetic products containing parabens safe? Yes!
What Are Parabens, and Why Don’t They Belong in Cosmetics? | Environmental Working Group
Phthalates - Diethyl phthalate (DEP), Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP)
Phthalates is the name for a group of chemicals found in many products and packaging including hair spray, creams, baby products, deodorants, cosmetics, body wash and nail polish. They are known as plasticizers, they are in clothes, lubricants and household products. Used to make plastic flexible and also as solvents or binders. Phthalates are linked to a number of health concerns such as reproductive & congenital defects, miscarriage, premature puberty & DNA damage and are listed as a probable carcinogen by the EPA.
Sources:
Restrictions to be extended on products containing plasticising chemicals – GOV.UK
Phthalate Regulations in the United Kingdom: An Overview.
Phthalates: why you need to know about the chemicals in cosmetics | Plastics | The Guardian
Baby care products: possible sources of infant phthalate exposure
Polyacrylamide
Polyacrylamide is used as a stabilising, binding and thickening agent. Most commonly found in anti-ageing products, moisturisers, sunscreens and coloured cosmetics. Polyacrylamide is made up of repeating molecules of acrylamide, which are a suspected carcinogen. Although Polyacrylamide itself is deemed safe, trace amounts of acrylamide can remain.
Sources:
EWG Skin Deep® | What is POLYACRYLAMIDE
Polyethylene glycol and Polypropylene glycol (PEG and PPG)
Polyethylene glycol and Polypropylene glycol are petroleum derived compounds. Often followed by a number, they are widely used in many products, including baby washes, facial scrubs, cosmetics and skincare as a thickener moisturiser and penetration enhancer. PEG’s can be easily absorbed through broken skin and can act as a penetration enhancer to allow more product to penetrate the skin. Recognised by the FDA as safe, the toxicity of PEG’s is complicated, as the process of making PEG’s can leave them contaminated with ethylene oxide a known carcinogen and 1,4-dioxane a suspected carcinogen.
Sources:
The Dirty Dozen: PEG Compounds and their contaminants – David Suzuki Foundation
The Case of Propylene Glycol: Here’s Why Is It’s Banned in Europe
US cosmetics are full of chemicals banned by Europe – why? | Makeup | The Guardian
Polysorbates (20/40/60/80)
Polysorbates are used as an emulsifier and to help water and oil molecules bind together. They help improve the texture, feel and scent of products. They are mostly found in products such as foundations, shampoos, skin cleansing products and makeup bases. There are health concerns around Polysorbates due to potential impurities with the product, particularly ethylene oxide a known carcinogen and 1,4 dioxane a suspected carcinogen.
Sources:
EWG Skin Deep® | What is POLYSORBATE
What are Polysorbates: Chemical Free Living – Force of Nature
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE aka Teflon)
Polytetrafluoroethylene is a fluorinated compound. Used in some skincare & makeup as an anti-slipping, bulking agent. Due to the way it is made, it has the potential to be contaminated with PFOA (a fluorinated compound) which is a potential carcinogen. reproductive toxicity, endocrine disruption.
Sources:
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Aka Teflon®) – Safe Cosmetics
Is Teflon in Your Cosmetics? || Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database | EWG
https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/teflon-in-beauty-products_n_5ab2b16be4b0decad04661b6
Styrene Acrylates Copolymer
Styrene Acrylates Copolymer is a chemical primarily used as a viscosity-increasing agent. This chemical will be found in products such as nail polish, sunscreens and eyeliners. Generally considered safe because of its low absorption into the skin, contamination with the possible carcinogen styrene is the primary concern.
Sources:
Synthetic Fragrances (undisclosed)
Synthetic Fragrance or ‘fragrance’ is an umbrella word for up to 3163 chemicals that are not legally required to be disclosed by companies as they can be considered a ’trade secret’. Used extensively in perfumes, home scents and skincare products to improve and give them their unique smell, they are also often found in cosmetics.
Whilst by no means all the ingredients are toxic, there are a good number that could be of concern. Some synthetic chemicals in fragrances are petroleum-based and can be harmful to human health. They may contain carcinogens such as benzophenone and styrene, endocrine disruptors such as phthalates as well as many others.
Sources:
Fragrances – Children’s Environmental Health Network
Right to Know: Exposing Toxic Fragrance Chemicals Report – Breast Cancer Prevention Partners (BCPP)
Talc
Talc is a naturally occurring mineral that is used to smooth and soften products as well as absorb moisture and act as an anti-caking agent. It will most commonly be found in blush, powders, eyeshadows and foundations. Talc due to its close proximity to asbestos can contain traces of the known carcinogen, asbestos.
Sources:
Is Talc in Makeup Safe? | Side Effects & Talc-Free Makeup
Asbestos in Makeup: How it Gets There & How to Avoid it
What’s the risk? Talc-based Cosmetic Products – Center for Research on Ingredient Safety
Touluene
Toluene is a chemical found naturally in crude oil. It is used mostly in cosmetics to help dissolve other substances, making it ideal for nail polish remover. It has also been used in the formulation of nail products to enable nail polishes, hardeners and lacquers to be applied smoothly
Toluene is irritating to the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. It can cause systemic toxicity by ingestion or inhalation and is slowly absorbed through the skin. The IARC classifies it as a category 3 carcinogen.
Sources:
Toluene – Compendium of Chemical Hazards
Toluene | Medical Management Guidelines | Toxic Substance Portal | ATSDR.
Carcinogenicity of benzene, toluene and xylene: epidemiological and experimental evidence
Triclocarbon and Triclosan
These chemicals are used as antibacterial agents mostly in soaps and detergents but can also be found in cosmetics, deodorants and toothpastes. With restricted use in Canada, Japan and Europe, they have not been found to be any more effective at cleaning bacteria than plain soap and water.
Exposure to these chemicals may affect your endocrine system by interfering with proper hormone function. Triclosan is lipophilic, meaning it can accumulate in fatty tissue within the body, with studies finding traces in human breast milk samples and umbilical cord blood of infants. It is also a suspected carcinogen linked to an increased risk of Breast Cancer.
Sources:
EWG Skin Deep® | What is TRICLOCARBAN
Fertility & reproductive harm
These are ingredients that can have adverse affects on the human reproductive function, fertility, or fetal development and growth.
Acrylates
Acrylates are chemicals made from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and are often found in false eyelash glue and nail products or as a film-forming agent.
Direct skin contact and inhalation are the main risks. In animal studies, they have been linked to organ system toxicity, cancer, cellular and neurological damage as well as developmental and reproductive toxicity.
Sources:
(PDF) POTENTIAL CANCER RISK IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS – ACRYLATES AND DERIVATIVES
IARC Publications Website – Isobutyl Nitrite, β-Picoline, and Some Acrylates
Butylated hydroxyanisole and Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHA and BHT)
BHA and BHT chemicals are used as preservatives in a variety of personal care products. Both of these chemicals are also used as preservatives in foods.
These chemicals are linked to several health concerns including cancer, endocrine disruption and organ-system toxicity.
Sources:
Butylated Compounds – Safe Cosmetics
Chemical UV Filters (Avobenzone, Benzophenone, Oxybenzone, Octinoxate, Octocrylene, Octisalate, Homosalate, Padimate O, 4-methylbenzilidenecamphor)
Chemical UV filters is an umbrella term that covers a number of chemicals used in chemical Sun Creams. These filters protect our skin from UV rays from the sun. Studies on animals have shown that these chemicals can be absorbed into the skin and cause damage to our hormones and reproductive organs.
Sources:
Thttps://www.breastcanceruk.org.uk/whats-in-my-suncream/he trouble with ingredients in sunscreens
https://www.forceofnatureclean.com/chemical-free-living-homosalate/
Phthalates - Diethyl phthalate (DEP), Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP)
Phthalates is the name for a group of chemicals found in many products and packaging including hair spray, creams, baby products, deodorants, cosmetics, body wash and nail polish. They are known as plasticizers, they are in clothes, lubricants and household products. Used to make plastic flexible and also as solvents or binders. Phthalates are linked to a number of health concerns such as reproductive & congenital defects, miscarriage, premature puberty & DNA damage and listed as a probable carcinogen by the EPA
Sources:
Restrictions to be extended on products containing plasticising chemicals – GOV.UK
Phthalate Regulations in the United Kingdom: An Overview.
Phthalates: why you need to know about the chemicals in cosmetics | Plastics | The Guardian
Baby care products: possible sources of infant phthalate exposure
Polyacrylamide
Polyacrylamide is used as a stabilising, binding and thickening agent. Most commonly found in anti-ageing products, moisturisers, sunscreens and coloured cosmetics. Polyacrylamide is made up of repeating molecules of acrylamide, which are a suspected carcinogen. Although Polyacrylamide itself is deemed safe, trace amounts of acrylamide can remain.
Sources:
EWG Skin Deep® | What is POLYACRYLAMIDE
Polysorbates (20/40/60/80)
Polysorbates are used as an emulsifier and to help water and oil molecules bind together. They help improve the texture, feel and scent of products. They are mostly found in products such as foundations, shampoos, skin cleansing products and makeup bases. There are health concerns around Polysorbates due to potential impurities with the product, particularly ethylene oxide a known carcinogen and 1,4 dioxane a suspected carcinogen.
Sources:
EWG Skin Deep® | What is POLYSORBATE
What are Polysorbates: Chemical Free Living – Force of Nature
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE aka Teflon)
Polytetrafluoroethylene is a fluorinated compound. Used in some skincare & makeup as an anti-slipping, bulking agent. Due to the way it is made, it has the potential to be contaminated with PFOA (a fluorinated compound) which is a potential carcinogen. reproductive toxicity, endocrine disruption.
Sources:
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Aka Teflon®) – Safe Cosmetics
Is Teflon in Your Cosmetics? || Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database | EWG
https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/teflon-in-beauty-products_n_5ab2b16be4b0decad04661b6
Synthetic Fragrances (undisclosed)
Synthetic Fragrance or ‘fragrance’ is an umbrella word for up to 3163 chemicals that are not legally required to be disclosed by companies as they can be considered a ’trade secret’. Used extensively in perfumes, home scents and skincare products to improve and give them their unique smell, they are also often found in cosmetics.
Whilst by no means all the ingredients are toxic, there are a good number that could be of concern. Some synthetic chemicals in fragrances are petroleum-based and can be harmful to human health. They may contain carcinogens such as benzophenone and styrene, endocrine disruptors such as phthalates as well as many others.
Sources:
Fragrances – Children’s Environmental Health Network
Right to Know: Exposing Toxic Fragrance Chemicals Report – Breast Cancer Prevention Partners (BCPP)
Touluene
Toluene is a chemical found naturally in crude oil. It is used mostly in cosmetics to help dissolve other substances, making it ideal for nail polish remover. It has also been used in the formulation of nail products to enable nail polishes, hardeners and lacquers to be applied smoothly
Toluene is irritating to the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. It can cause systemic toxicity by ingestion or inhalation and is slowly absorbed through the skin. The IARC classifies it as a category 3 carcinogen.
Sources:
Toluene – Compendium of Chemical Hazards
Toluene | Medical Management Guidelines | Toxic Substance Portal | ATSDR.
Carcinogenicity of benzene, toluene and xylene: epidemiological and experimental evidence
Endocrine disruptors
These are ingredients that mimic or interfere with your body’s hormones (endocrine system). They can increase the risk of serious deseases including cancers, neurodevelopmental and neurodegenerative diseases, metabolic disorders, asthma, and immune disorders
Chemical UV Filters (Avobenzone, Benzophenone, Oxybenzone, Octinoxate, Octocrylene, Octisalate, Homosalate, Padimate O, 4-methylbenzilidenecamphor)
Chemical UV filters is an umbrella term that covers a number of chemicals used in chemical Sun Creams. These filters protect our skin from UV rays from the sun. Studies on animals have shown that these chemicals can be absorbed into the skin and cause damage to our hormones and reproductive organs.
Sources:
The trouble with ingredients in sunscreens
https://www.forceofnatureclean.com/chemical-free-living-homosalate/
Ethanolamines and Nitrosamines (MEA, DEA, NDEA & TEA)
Monoethanolamine (MEA), Nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA), Diethanolamine (DEA) and Triethanolamine (TEA) are examples of ethanolamines (Amino acids and alcohol). When ethanolamines are combined with certain preservatives that break down into nitrogen, they can form Nitrosamines. They are often found in products such as foundation, eyeshadows, soaps and lotions. They are used as emulsifiers and PH regulators. Animal studies have shown an increased risk of cancer and may have adverse effects on male reproductive health.
Sources:
Ethanolamine Compounds (MEA, DEA, TEA And Others) – Safe Cosmetics
Nitrosamines in Cosmetics, Toiletries and Personal Care Products. – ASCC
Formaldahyde Releasers
Formaldehyde is a chemical that was traditionally used as a preservative to help eliminate the growth of bacteria in cosmetic products, nail polish and shampoos. Exposure to formaldehyde has been linked with an increased risk of cancer. Formaldehyde irritates the nose, eyes and throat. These irritations can happen at low levels of formaldehyde. Other short-term effects include headache, runny nose, nausea and difficulty breathing. Exposure may cause wheezing, asthma attacks and other respiratory symptoms. It is no longed allowed to be added as an ingredient in cosmetics in the UK. However, certain permitted chemicals found in skincare and cosmetics such as Diazolidinyl Urea and Imidazolidinyl Urea and Quaternium -15 are known Formaldehyde releasers.
Sources:
Formaldehyde And Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives – Safe Cosmetics
Formaldehyde: general information – GOV.UK
Formaldehyde in cosmetic products
Twelve chemicals to avoid in your beauty products | The Independent
EWG Skin Deep® | What is DIAZOLIDINYL UREA (FORMALDEHYDE RELEASER)
Polyacrylamide
Polyacrylamide is used as a stabilising, binding and thickening agent. Most commonly found in anti-ageing products, moisturisers, sunscreens and coloured cosmetics. Polyacrylamide is made up of repeating molecules of acrylamide, which are a suspected carcinogen. Although Polyacrylamide itself is deemed safe, trace amounts of acrylamide can remain.
Sources:
EWG Skin Deep® | What is POLYACRYLAMIDE
Polyethylene glycol and Polypropylene glycol (PEG and PPG)
Polyethylene glycol and Polypropylene glycol are petroleum derived compounds. Often followed by a number, they are widely used in many products, including baby washes, facial scrubs, cosmetics and skincare as a thickener moisturiser and penetration enhancer. PEG’s can be easily absorbed through broken skin and can act as a penetration enhancer to allow more product to penetrate the skin. Recognised by the FDA as safe, the toxicity of PEG’s is complicated, as the process of making PEG’s can leave them contaminated with ethylene oxide a known carcinogen and 1,4-dioxane a suspected carcinogen.
Sources:
The Dirty Dozen: PEG Compounds and their contaminants – David Suzuki Foundation
The Case of Propylene Glycol: Here’s Why Is It’s Banned in Europe
US cosmetics are full of chemicals banned by Europe – why? | Makeup | The Guardian
Polysorbates (20/40/60/80)
Polysorbates are used as an emulsifier and to help water and oil molecules bind together. They help improve the texture, feel and scent of products. They are mostly found in products such as foundations, shampoos, skin cleansing products and makeup bases. There are health concerns around Polysorbates due to potential impurities with the product, particularly ethylene oxide a known carcinogen and 1,4 dioxane a suspected carcinogen.
Sources:
EWG Skin Deep® | What is POLYSORBATE
What are Polysorbates: Chemical Free Living – Force of Nature
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE aka Teflon)
Polytetrafluoroethylene is a fluorinated compound. Used in some skincare & makeup as an anti-slipping, bulking agent. Due to the way it is made, it has the potential to be contaminated with PFOA (a fluorinated compound) which is a potential carcinogen. reproductive toxicity, endocrine disruption.
Sources:
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Aka Teflon®) – Safe Cosmetics
Is Teflon in Your Cosmetics? || Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database | EWG
https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/teflon-in-beauty-products_n_5ab2b16be4b0decad04661b6
Phthalates - Diethyl phthalate (DEP), Dibutyl phthalate (DBP), di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP)
Phthalates is the name for a group of chemicals found in many products and packaging including hair spray, creams, baby products, deodorants, cosmetics, body wash and nail polish. They are known as plasticizers, they are in clothes, lubricants and household products. Used to make plastic flexible and also as solvents or binders. Phthalates are linked to a number of health concerns such as reproductive & congenital defects, miscarriage, premature puberty & DNA damage and are listed as a probable carcinogen by the EPA.
Sources:
Restrictions to be extended on products containing plasticising chemicals – GOV.UK
Phthalate Regulations in the United Kingdom: An Overview.
Phthalates: why you need to know about the chemicals in cosmetics | Plastics | The Guardian
Baby care products: possible sources of infant phthalate exposure
Resorcinol
Resorcinol is a chemical bonding agent and also aids the removal of hard, scaly or tough skin. Most commonly used in hair dyes and acne medication, it is a known endocrine disruptor. Given that it is often used as an acne treatment, it can readily enter the body through broken skin.
Sources:
Synthetic Fragrances (undisclosed)
Synthetic Fragrance or ‘fragrance’ is an umbrella word for up to 3163 chemicals that are not legally required to be disclosed by companies as they can be considered a ’trade secret’. Used extensively in perfumes, home scents and skincare products to improve and give them their unique smell, they are also often found in cosmetics.
Whilst by no means all the ingredients are toxic, there are a good number that could be of concern. Some synthetic chemicals in fragrances are petroleum-based and can be harmful to human health. They may contain carcinogens such as benzophenone and styrene, endocrine disruptors such as phthalates as well as many others.
Sources:
Fragrances – Children’s Environmental Health Network
Right to Know: Exposing Toxic Fragrance Chemicals Report – Breast Cancer Prevention Partners (BCPP)
Touluene
Toluene is a chemical found naturally in crude oil. It is used mostly in cosmetics to help dissolve other substances, making it ideal for nail polish remover. It has also been used in the formulation of nail products to enable nail polishes, hardeners and lacquers to be applied smoothly
Toluene is irritating to the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. It can cause systemic toxicity by ingestion or inhalation and is slowly absorbed through the skin. The IARC classifies it as a category 3 carcinogen.
Sources:
Toluene – Compendium of Chemical Hazards
Toluene | Medical Management Guidelines | Toxic Substance Portal | ATSDR.
Carcinogenicity of benzene, toluene and xylene: epidemiological and experimental evidence
Triclocarbon and Triclosan
These chemicals are used as antibacterial agents mostly in soaps and detergents but can also be found in cosmetics, deodorants and toothpastes. With restricted use in Canada, Japan and Europe, they have not been found to be any more effective at cleaning bacteria than plain soap and water.
Exposure to these chemicals may affect your endocrine system by interfering with proper hormone function. Triclosan is lipophilic, meaning it can accumulate in fatty tissue within the body, with studies finding traces in human breast milk samples and umbilical cord blood of infants. It is also a suspected carcinogen linked to an increased risk of Breast Cancer.
Sources:
EWG Skin Deep® | What is TRICLOCARBAN
Organ toxins
These are ingredients that can negatively affect the development and optimal function of internal organs including, brain, kidney, liver, skin and reproductive organs.
Acrylates
Acrylates are chemicals made from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and are often found in false eyelash glue and nail products or as a film-forming agent.
Direct skin contact and inhalation are the main risks. In animal studies, they have been linked to organ system toxicity, cancer, cellular and neurological damage as well as developmental and reproductive toxicity.
Sources:
(PDF) POTENTIAL CANCER RISK IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS – ACRYLATES AND DERIVATIVES
IARC Publications Website – Isobutyl Nitrite, β-Picoline, and Some Acrylates
Carbon Black
Carbon black is made up of finely divided forms of amorphous carbon, usually obtained as soot from partial combustion of hydrocarbons. It is most commonly used in cosmetics as a darkening pigment for mascara, eyeliner & lipsticks. Listed by the OEHHA as carcinogenic when in respirable size.
Sources:
Carbon black (airborne, unbound particles of respirable size) – OEHHA
https://www.birlacarbon.com/pdf/SDS/01_Rubber_Products_SDS/INDO-GHS%20RCB%
Ethanolamines and Nitrosamines (MEA, DEA, NDEA & TEA)
Monoethanolamine (MEA), Nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA), Diethanolamine (DEA) and Triethanolamine (TEA) are examples of ethanolamines (Amino acids and alcohol). When ethanolamines are combined with certain preservatives that break down into nitrogen, they can form Nitrosamines. They are often found in products such as foundation, eyeshadows, soaps and lotions. They are used as emulsifiers and PH regulators. Animal studies have shown an increased risk of cancer and may have adverse effects on male reproductive health.
Sources:
Ethanolamine Compounds (MEA, DEA, TEA And Others) – Safe Cosmetics
Nitrosamines in Cosmetics, Toiletries and Personal Care Products. – ASCC
Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and Methylchloroisothiazolinone (CMIT)
These chemicals are used in beauty products for their preservative properties. Found across many types of products such as baby care, hair dye, makeup and nail products. The major health concerns associated with these chemicals are neurotoxicity & organ system toxicity.
Sources:
Methylisothiazolinone uses and effects I Curious Chloride scans product’s ingredients
Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone – Safe Cosmetics
P-Phenylenediamine
P-Phenylenediamine is a chemical most commonly used in hair dyes.
It can irritate the skin and is highly toxic if ingested or inhaled, can cause changes to DNA and is linked to an increased risk of cancer.
Sources:
P-Phenylenediamine – Safe Cosmetics
P-Phenylenediamine – Why and How you should Avoid it | Curious Chloride
Synthetic Fragrances (undisclosed)
Synthetic Fragrance or ‘fragrance’ is an umbrella word for up to 3163 chemicals that are not legally required to be disclosed by companies as they can be considered a ’trade secret’. Used extensively in perfumes, home scents and skincare products to improve and give them their unique smell, they are also often found in cosmetics.
Whilst by no means all the ingredients are toxic, there are a good number that could be of concern. Some synthetic chemicals in fragrances are petroleum-based and can be harmful to human health. They may contain carcinogens such as benzophenone and styrene, endocrine disruptors such as phthalates as well as many others.
Sources:
Fragrances – Children’s Environmental Health Network
Right to Know: Exposing Toxic Fragrance Chemicals Report – Breast Cancer Prevention Partners (BCPP)
Touluene
Toluene is a chemical found naturally in crude oil. It is used mostly in cosmetics to help dissolve other substances, making it ideal for nail polish remover. It has also been used in the formulation of nail products to enable nail polishes, hardeners and lacquers to be applied smoothly
Toluene is irritating to the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. It can cause systemic toxicity by ingestion or inhalation and is slowly absorbed through the skin. The IARC classifies it as a category 3 carcinogen.
Sources:
Toluene – Compendium of Chemical Hazards
Toluene | Medical Management Guidelines | Toxic Substance Portal | ATSDR.
Carcinogenicity of benzene, toluene and xylene: epidemiological and experimental evidence
Neurotoxins
These are ingredients that can harm or damage nerve tissue or nerve cells (neurons) in the body, leading to various neurological symptoms and disorders.
Ceteareth-20
Ceteareth Glycol is used as an emulsifier in skincare. It is generally considered safe to use on skin however it should be avoided on broken or damaged skin as it can cause kidney damage. There is also a concern that it can be contaminated with 1,4 dioxane during the ethoxylation process.
sources:
Is Ceteareth-20 Safe? – The Dermatology Review
Ethanolamine and Nitrosamines (MEA, DEA, NDEA and TEA)
Monoethanolamine (MEA), Nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA), Diethanolamine (DEA) and Triethanolamine (TEA) are examples of ethanolamines (Amino acids and alcohol). When ethanolamines are combined with certain preservatives that break down into nitrogen, they can form Nitrosamines. They are often found in products such as foundation, eyeshadows, soaps and lotions. They are used as emulsifiers and PH regulators. Animal studies have shown an increased risk of cancer and may have adverse effects on male reproductive health.
Sources:
Ethanolamine Compounds (MEA, DEA, TEA And Others) – Safe Cosmetics
Nitrosamines in Cosmetics, Toiletries and Personal Care Products. – ASCC
Formaldehyde Releasers
Formaldehyde is a chemical that was traditionally used as a preservative to help eliminate the growth of bacteria in cosmetic products, nail polish and shampoos. Exposure to formaldehyde has been linked with an increased risk of cancer. Formaldehyde irritates the nose, eyes and throat. These irritations can happen at low levels of formaldehyde. Other short-term effects include headache, runny nose, nausea and difficulty breathing. Exposure may cause wheezing, asthma attacks and other respiratory symptoms. It is no longed allowed to be added as an ingredient in cosmetics in the UK. However, certain permitted chemicals found in skincare and cosmetics such as Diazolidinyl Urea and Imidazolidinyl Urea and Quaternium -15 are known Formaldehyde releasers.
Sources:
Formaldehyde And Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives – Safe Cosmetics
Formaldehyde: general information – GOV.UK
Formaldehyde in cosmetic products
Twelve chemicals to avoid in your beauty products | The Independent
EWG Skin Deep® | What is DIAZOLIDINYL UREA (FORMALDEHYDE RELEASER)
Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and Methylchloroisothiazolinone (CMIT)
These chemicals are used in beauty products for their preservative properties. Found across many types of products such as baby care, hair dye, makeup and nail products. The major health concerns associated with these chemicals are neurotoxicity & organ system toxicity.
Sources:
Methylisothiazolinone uses and effects I Curious Chloride scans product’s ingredients
Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone – Safe Cosmetics
Parabens
Parabens are used as preservatives to protect against microbial (e.g., bacteria, fungus) growth and help preserve the product for longer. They are found in a wide ranging list of skincare and haircare products. A number of Parbens are now banned in Europe along with restrictions on use for others as they can mimic oestrogen by binding to oestrogen receptors on cells. For this reason, there has been concern that they may cause or contribute to breast cancer. The United States still allows their use, although there is growing pressure from consumers to remove them. There is a lot of conflicting information about Parabens and their safety for use in cosmetics,
Sources:
Are cosmetic products containing parabens safe? Yes!
What Are Parabens, and Why Don’t They Belong in Cosmetics? | Environmental Working Group
Polyacrylamide
Polyacrylamide is used as a stabilising, binding and thickening agent. Most commonly found in anti-ageing products, moisturisers, sunscreens and coloured cosmetics. Polyacrylamide is made up of repeating molecules of acrylamide, which are a suspected carcinogen. Although Polyacrylamide itself is deemed safe, trace amounts of acrylamide can remain.
Sources:
EWG Skin Deep® | What is POLYACRYLAMIDE
DNA & cell toxins
These are ingredients that can harm or damage nerve tissue or nerve cells (neurons) in the body, leading to various neurological symptoms and disorders.
Ethanolamine and Nitrosamines (MEA, DEA, NDEA and TEA)
Monoethanolamine (MEA), Nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA), Diethanolamine (DEA) and Triethanolamine (TEA) are examples of ethanolamines (Amino acids and alcohol). When ethanolamines are combined with certain preservatives that break down into nitrogen, they can form Nitrosamines. They are often found in products such as foundation, eyeshadows, soaps and lotions. They are used as emulsifiers and PH regulators. Animal studies have shown an increased risk of cancer and may have adverse effects on male reproductive health.
Sources:
Ethanolamine Compounds (MEA, DEA, TEA And Others) – Safe Cosmetics
Nitrosamines in Cosmetics, Toiletries and Personal Care Products. – ASCC
Formaldehyde Releasers
Formaldehyde is a chemical that was traditionally used as a preservative to help eliminate the growth of bacteria in cosmetic products, nail polish and shampoos. Exposure to formaldehyde has been linked with an increased risk of cancer. Formaldehyde irritates the nose, eyes and throat. These irritations can happen at low levels of formaldehyde. Other short-term effects include headache, runny nose, nausea and difficulty breathing. Exposure may cause wheezing, asthma attacks and other respiratory symptoms. It is no longed allowed to be added as an ingredient in cosmetics in the UK. However, certain permitted chemicals found in skincare and cosmetics such as Diazolidinyl Urea and Imidazolidinyl Urea and Quaternium -15 are known Formaldehyde releasers.
Sources:
Formaldehyde And Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives – Safe Cosmetics
Formaldehyde: general information – GOV.UK
Formaldehyde in cosmetic products
Twelve chemicals to avoid in your beauty products | The Independent
EWG Skin Deep® | What is DIAZOLIDINYL UREA (FORMALDEHYDE RELEASER)
Mineral oils
Mineral oil is a petroleum derivative made from refining crude oil. It can also be labelled as paraffinum liquidum, paraffinum perliquidum or synthetic wax in the UK.
Mineral oils are used to provide a barrier to the skin to help a product’s moisturising effects. It can have adverse health effects if the petroleum is not highly refined and therefore can contain polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are carcinogenic.
Sources:
Mineral Oils: Untreated and Mildly Treated – Cancer-Causing Substances – NCI
Parabens
Parabens are used as preservatives to protect against microbial (e.g., bacteria, fungus) growth and help preserve the product for longer. They are found in a wide ranging list of skincare and haircare products. A number of Parbens are now banned in Europe along with restrictions on use for others as they can mimic oestrogen by binding to oestrogen receptors on cells. For this reason, there has been concern that they may cause or contribute to breast cancer. The United States still allows their use, although there is growing pressure from consumers to remove them. There is a lot of conflicting information about Parabens and their safety for use in cosmetics,
Sources:
Are cosmetic products containing parabens safe? Yes!
What Are Parabens, and Why Don’t They Belong in Cosmetics? | Environmental Working Group
P-Phenylenediamine
P-Phenylenediamine is a chemical most commonly used in hair dyes.
It can irritate the skin and is highly toxic if ingested or inhaled, can cause changes to DNA and is linked to an increased risk of cancer.
Sources:
P-Phenylenediamine – Safe Cosmetics
P-Phenylenediamine – Why and How you should Avoid it | Curious Chloride
Other ingredients we will not stock
Some ingredients do not fall clearly into one of the above categories, but they still show the potential to cause harm or there is conflicting data about their safety. To be safe, we made the decision to not stock products that contain the following ingredients:
Aluminium
Aluminium is a natural mineral. Primarily used as a thickening agent in cosmetics and to block sweat ducts in deodorants. Lipsticks, deodorants and toothpaste tend to be the most common products containing Aluminium. Aluminium is a known Neurotoxin in animals, with possible links to Neurodegenerative disorders in humans. Whilst cosmetic ingredient levels are regulated to safe levels, it is the accumulative effect of both food and cosmetic exposure that can then lead to health issues.
Sources:
Aluminium in Skin Care Products: A Complex Controversy | Tiege Hanley
Butoxyethanol
Butoxyethanol is a chemical used in beauty products to help prevent separation and to keep a product looking clear. Often found in facial cleansers, conditioners and nail products. Butoxyethanol is on the Red List* of Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, a project of Breast Cancer Prevention Partners (previously the Breast Cancer Fund). They classify butoxyethanol as of “occupational concern.” In tests it has proven to be an irritant, particularly with eyes and a possible neuro and organ toxin.
Sources:
EWG Skin Deep® | What is BUTOXYETHANOL
Butoxyethanol uses and effects I Curious Chloride scans product’s ingredients
Emulsifying wax (synthetic or petroleum based)
Emulsifying wax is made up of a mix of chemicals to make a synthetic wax. It is commonly used in lotions and cream to give a smooth consistency. It is not to be confused with natural waxes such as beeswax. Whilst some formulations may be safe and non irritating to the skin, like synthetic fragrances, the full chemical make up is often not stated and therefore can hide a number of ingredients on our No-go ingredients list.
Sources:
Emulsifying wax; what is it and why I don’t recommend using it – Helenatur
Phenoxyethanol
Phenoxyethanol is a chemical commonly used for its stabilising and preservative properties in cosmetic, skincare and haircare products.
It’s an ethoxylated ingredient, which means it goes through a chemical process that potentially could result in traces of 1.4 dioxane, a carcinogen, being present in it.
There are also concerns that Infant oral exposure can acutely affect nervous system function in young children.
sources:
Phenoxyethanol in Cosmetics: Is it Safe?
Synthetic Retinol (Retinol, Retinoic acid, Retinyl acetate, Retinyl palmitate, Isotretinoin, All-trans Retinol Tretinoin)
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A. It can be natural or synthetic. Retinols are mostly used in moisturisers, serums and anti ageing products.
Whilst most forms of Retinoids used in cosmetics have been deemed safe, it is not advised to use whilst pregnant or breast feeding to avoid excessive amounts of Vitamin A in the body. Some studies have concluded this can be detrimental to development and can lead to birth defects.
Similarly, high doses of Retinoids have been linked to an increased risk of certain cancers.
It is important to note that there are only very limited studies done on both the developmental and carcinogenic risks to health from Retinols.
Sources:
Why I Don’t Use Retinol – Pure and Simple Nourishment.
Retinol and Retinol Compounds – Safe Cosmetics.
Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate (ALS), Sodium Pareth Sulphate
These chemicals are commonly used as a foaming agent in many shampoos, cleansers, shaving foams, shower gels and bath foams as well as cosmetics. There is a lot of debate around SLS, SLES and ALM use in skincare and cosmetics and they are often noted on packaging as being removed. The main issue is they can irritate the skin. They should be used topically and in wash off products as they are easily absorbed through the skin and into the body, allowing them to build up in internal organs. During the manufacturing process of SLS’s traces of carcinogenic nitrates and 1,4 Dioxane can remain in the product.
Sources:
Dangers of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate | livestrong
What is sodium lauryl sulfate and is it safe to use?
The Dirty Dozen: Sodium Laureth Sulfate – David Suzuki Foundation
Titanium Dioxide
Titanium Dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a reflective agent in mineral Sun Creams and cosmetics as a brightener to help create vibrant colours. Titanium Dioxide is not deemed unsafe when applied in Non-Nano form, topically on healthy skin as the particles are too large to penetrate the skin. The problem lies when the particles are reduced in size to what is called nanoparticles. The data suggests nanosized titanium dioxide can be inhaled by some mammals, which has caused concerns about adverse effects on human health. Studies have suggested that TiO2 nanoparticles may be more toxic than traditional larger particles of TiO2. As TiO2 is present in many cosmetic powers they are easily inhaled and lipsticks ingested.
Given there is not enough conclusive evidence either way as to their toxicity we have decided not to stock items with it in.
Sources:
Titanium Dioxide – Safe Cosmetics
Titanium Dioxide Nanoparticles: a Risk for Human Health?
Titanium dioxide nanoparticles: a review of current toxicological data
Titanium Dioxide Nanoparticle Penetration into the Skin and Effects on HaCaT Cells – PMC